Car Insurance

Cars are an important part of our lives but when they start having problems it can be confusing and expensive. In some cases we are able to tell immediately what is wrong with the car. In other cases one has to be skilled at figuring out the problem. When it comes to cars sometimes there are subtle clues that something is getting ready to fall apart or quit working. It may be a sound or a smell but your car attempts to notify you that some thing is wrong - if you’re paying attention.

Mufflers are a very important part of your car’s make-up since they not only quiet the car but they also help to prevent emissions from entering the cab. One of the first signs of a failing muffler is a change in the sound of your car when it starts and while it is running. The car will sound louder but you might not notice at first. If the muffler is not repaired the sound will definitely get louder and louder. In most towns sound pollution is an offense for which you will be written a ticket. That’s only one reason to make sure your muffler gets fixed, and soon.

When emissions from the car’s tail pipe begin to enter the cab it’s a dangerous occurrence. Exhaust can be deadly and since it’s clear you have no idea how much is entering the car. Small children and people with heart or lung problems are particularly at risk. If you live in a large town where there is lots of traffic you may not immediately notice the fumes. Initially the fumes can cause coughing, allergies or watery eyes. Exhaust fumes can also cause small babies to fall asleep while riding in the car. This is extremely dangerous. In addition, faulty mufflers emit toxic gasses into the air. The muffler helps to clean up the gasses before sending them out of the tailpipe.

Gas mileage is seriously decreased when a muffler is bad. In some cases the estimates are that a car will go through gasoline twice as fast with a bad muffler as it will with a good muffler.

Upon noticing fumes or loud noise from the muffler have it checked immediately. There are several different things that can cause a car to release gasses into the cab or be louder than usual. There’s a possibility that it’s not the muffler after all. Muffler gaskets can go bad letting in deadly fumes and causing the car to be louder than normal. It also could be that your tailpipe is broken and you won’t be needing a new muffler but a tailpipe instead. Or the car’s catalytic converter could have gone bad, which is even more expensive than a new muffler. Have someone you trust look under the car. If it is the muffler a hole or burnt spot is extremely noticeable. A new muffler costs in the neighborhood of $100 to $150. Some car models are cheaper, some more expensive. Don’t put off having the muffler fixed, though. It will save you gas money in the long run and is much safe for your family and the environment.

Honda is known for two things: cars that last upwards of 300,000 miles with few problems, and cars that are difficult to fix when problems do happen. The latter comes from the scarcity of “Honda mechanics” and difficult-to-find replacement parts. Mechanics specializing in Hondas can be expensive, forcing many Honda owners to attempt the work themselves. If you are among these adventurers, knowing where to best find parts for your Honda can be a valuable time-saver.

NEW PARTS

Genuine Honda

Of course, the best way to be sure you have the right part for your car is to go straight to the Honda dealer. Factory parts are generally better quality, but can often cost two or three times what aftermarket parts cost. Also, the older the car, the harder it can be to find the parts for it, even from the dealer. Often, parts for older cars will need to be special ordered; on rare occasions, they may not be available at all.

Aftermarket

If you want to cut costs by opting for aftermarket, there are a variety of automotive parts stores to turn to. Major chains, such as Checker, Schucks, and Kragen, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Napa, Carquest, and Champion, will offer the best availability of parts for your Honda. However, the manufacturers of aftermarket parts sold in stores such as these tend to make parts to fit a variety of cars. As a result, the aftermarket part you purchase may not fit your car as well as the original – and sometimes not at all. These stores often offer a superior warranty with their parts – such as Checker’s well-known lifetime warranty – but this is usually a ploy to counteract inferior quality. The assumption is most likely that the majority of people do not own a car for long enough to lose money on a lifetime warranty. However, if you need to save money, and you do the work yourself, poor quality with a lifetime warranty means nothing more than an afternoon spent installing a free replacement a couple of years down the line.

Performance and Special Interest

There are many companies specializing in performance parts for Hondas. To find these specialty providers, run an Internet search or comb through the ads in the backs of performance and racing magazines. For those who make Hondas their hobbies, performance upgrades can turn an everyday car into something much more interesting and fun. Before installing any upgrades, however, be sure to educate yourself about the part and what changes might be necessary to other components to ensure the best performance from your car.

USED PARTS

Junkyards/Salvage Yards

If you are on a very tight budget, or trying to find a discontinued part for an older car, local junkyards or salvage yards can be a veritable gold mine – without the cost. Especially at junkyards where customers are responsible for removing the parts, prices are a fraction of what aftermarket stores charge. This can be the most time-consuming way of finding parts, as well as the biggest gamble, as parts are used and come with little or no warranty. However, when it comes to expensive parts that do not commonly wear out, or parts that are largely unavailable, junkyards and salvage yards can be a Honda owner’s best friend.

Other Resources

When looking for hard-to-find parts, it pays to be creative in where you look. For example, the classified section in local papers may contain ads for parts cars or used parts. Also, be on the lookout for Honda clubs in your area, and get involved; club membership can offer benefits such as discounts with sponsoring stores, and the “grapevine” can be a valuable way to locate parts and do-it-yourself information.

THINGS TO REMEMBER

There are many avenues available in the Honda owner’s search for parts. The choice you make should depend largely on what is most important to you. If you are most interested in the easiest possible install, an exact fit, and the comfort of knowing the replacement should last at least as long as the original, then factory parts are the best choice. If you want new parts but can’t afford to pay for the Honda name and quality, if you are preparing to sell the car, or if you want increased performance, then your needs may require aftermarket parts. If you are running on a tight budget or if you can’t find the part new, used parts may be your best option. However you go about finding parts for your Honda, make sure the source suits your needs.

Replacing the radiator in a 1970 Mustang is a fairly simple task. There are very few steps, even with an automatic transmission. It should take less than an hour, even for someone with little or no experience.

Begin by draining your radiator. You will need something to catch the fluid, and you will want to be sure to store and dispose of the old fluid in a safe manner. Animals are attracted to it because it is sweet, but it is very poisonous. You will find the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Remove this, and keep track of it. You will probably need to install it in your replacement radiator. Next, remove the two hoses. One is at the top of the radiator and the other is at the bottom. If you are going to use the old hoses, they only need to be disconnected on the radiator side. I recommend replacing the old hoses. To do that you will need to disconnect both ends. The top hose can be removed right away. The bottom hose should be disconnected from the radiator now, then wait to try and disconnect it from you motor until after you have removed the radiator. It will be easier to access then. Removing the old hoses can be difficult because they have usually gotten hot and are stuck on. First loosen the clamps completely. Save these clamps, you will need them later. Try to pull the hose off. If it is stuck use a quick twisting, pulling motion to try and break it free. You may have to work on it for a while. If you cannot pull it off you will have to cut it off.

If you have an automatic transmission disconnect the transmission cooler lines. These are at the bottom of the radiator. This requires using two wrenches at once, and it will be the most brain boggling part of the procedure. Be sure you do not twist these lines! Use one wrench to hold the line still and the other to loosen it. When you have these disconnected you will have a nut in each hole still in the radiator. Later you will remove these and install them in your new radiator.

Disconnect the shroud. It will be bolted or screwed to the radiator. You are almost ready to remove the old radiator now. There is a bracket on top of your radiator, holding it in place. Look at this from the front of your vehicle and you will find the bolts that hold this bracket in place. Remove those bolts. The bracket will come free from the car, and you can easily pull it off of the top of the radiator. Now you can gently lift the radiator from the car. If you are keeping your old shroud, leave it there. If not you can remove it now, also. If you are replacing your hoses, do not forget to disconnect that old bottom hose from the engine now, and go ahead and attach the new one there. You will probably use the clamps you saved earlier. Slide them onto the hose, put the hose in place, then slide the clamp down to about one quarter inch from the end of the hose and tighten.

Prepare your new radiator by installing the drain plug, attachments for the transmission cooler lines, and cap. Your new radiator may have come with these things already in place. If not, use the old ones. If you are replacing your shroud put it in the car now. Gently lower the new radiator into the car. Replace the bracket from the top, and bolt in place. Attach the transmission cooler lines, and hoses. Bolt or screw your shroud to your new radiator, making sure the fan still has room and is not going to hit the shroud or the radiator. Fill your radiator with the proper mixture of water and anti-freeze. Half and half is a good mix. You can use an anti-freeze tester to check your mixture if you are not sure. Start the vehicle, and watch your fluid level. It will go down. You need to keep filling it until it stops going down. Securely replace the cap, and check all connections for leaks. With an automatic transmission, check the transmission fluid in case any leaked out of the cooling lines.

You are ready for a test drive!

If the spark plugs in your car’s engine are not properly maintained you aren’t going to go very far. The spark plugs should be checked every 5 to 6 thousand miles. They should be replaced after 10 to 12 thousand miles. Check your hand-book for the size and grade of your plugs. Always use a spark plug spanner to undo the plugs. A box spanner may damage the fragile ceramic insulator.

Before you can reach the plugs you will first have to remove the HT leads to the distributor. Before you do this label the leads so you know which one fits to which plug. Once you have removed the leads clean off the grit around each plug with an old paint brush. Now take out the plugs with your spark plug spanner. Label the plugs so you know where they go. Take a look at the nodes of the plugs where the electrodes are. A normal plug will have a thin light brown coating over it. Here are some indications that all is not right:

(1) The plug is oiled up. This indicates a worn engine. Try a different grade plug.

(2) The plug is covered with a dry sooty deposit. The fuel / air mix is too high. Check the carburettor setting.

(3) The insulator is spotty. This means that the plug if overheating. Check you have the correct grade.

(4) The threads are damaged. The spark plug has been sitting loosely. Fit a new plug.

If the electrodes have rounded edges then the plug should be replaced. Now you should clean the plugs with a paint brush and white spirit. Dry the plug off and clean the threads and around the outer the outer electrode using a soft wire brush. Use a fine file to clean the working surfaces of the electrodes. Then use a clean cloth to remove any dirt from the outer surface of the insulator.

Check in your handbook for the recommended gap between the spark plug’s electrodes. To set the gap you will need a plug gapping tool. Push the feeler gauge into the gap between the two electrodes. If the gap is correct the feeler will fit quite snugly and you will feel a very slight drag when you pull it out. If the gap is wrong use one of the slots in the gapping tool to bend the side electrode until it is correct.

Reposition the plugs into their holes by hand. Now do them up with the plug spanner, making sure not to cross thread them. Now refit the plug leads, making sure that each one snaps firmly onto the top of it’s spark plug.

Be conscientious with your spark plug maintenance and you will be rewarded with many years of faithful service.

If your car has problems with the headlights you are a hazard on the roads. You are also driving an illegal vehicle. It is imperative, then, that you regularly check to ensure that your headlights are working correctly. But what can you do if you find that one of your headlights is faulty?

The first thing to do is to check the fuses in the fuse box. Consult your car handbook to see which fuse covers the headlights. If it is blown, replace it with one of the same rating and try the headlights again. Hopefully, the problem is solved.

If you still have problems, then your trouble may lie with the power to the lighting switch. This will require a check of the wiring of both the head and side lights. It may be that the filament in a certain position of the headlight has blown. In this case the light may work in the dipped but not the full position or vice versa. To correct this problem you will have to remove the headlight. Here’s how:

CLIP-ON VARIETY

The fittings for clip on headlights can be accessed from under the car’s bonnet. Release the top fixing with a screwdriver. Now carefully prise the light away, pulling it up and away from the bottom lugs. Now pull the multi-connector plug from the terminals on the bulb.

SCREW IN VARIETY

Remove the outer trim and undo the screws affixing the retaining ring to the light. Remove the ring and pull the headlight forward. Now, disconnect the wiring and remove the light from it’s housing. Remove the rubber cover and bulb clip, if it has one.

You are now ready to check the bulb. Remove the bulb from the light and look at it against the light to see if the filament has blown. If so, you will need a new bulb. If the bulb looks o.k., check the headlight connections. Clean the terminals using fine paper. Now use a test lamp to probe each of the terminals (clip the test lamp lead to a good earth point on the car’s body first). Switch the headlights onto the high beam position. The lamp should now light when you touch the high beam terminal. Now repeat the test for the dipped light position. If the tester lights in both tests, it may be that the earth wire is faulty. Test this by attaching the lead of your test lamp to the live battery terminal, then probe the earth connector. If the tester doesn’t light, then the earth is at fault. You can often correct this by cleaning the earth. Check your manual to see at what point the earth fits to the vehicle. Unbolt the connection and clean the tag connector and the body work with emery cloth. Now apply some Vaseline to this area.

If you decide to purchase a new bulb you will find that there are two kinds available: tungsten and quartz-halogen. Tungsten bulbs are cheaper than quartz-halogen and they last longer. The advantage of the quartz-halogen light, however, is that it emits a brighter white light and will not dim with age. If you do go for a quartz-halogen bulb, be sure not to touch the glass portion of it. The oil in your skin will attack the surface and will cause a hot spot that will cause the bulb to quickly blow out.