Car Insurance

The radiator is arguably the most important part under the hood of your vehicle. It is the part that provides the cooling to your engine so that it does not overheat. Proper care of a radiator can extend the life of your stock, or factory, radiator long past its initial lifespan as well as the engine. Improper care of your radiator and cooling system can become expensive, costing you hundreds of dollars in repairs to the radiator system, and thousands of dollars if neglect of the radiator system damages engine components.

Before beginning work on the cooling system, you should have the following tools with you for the job.

Ratchet set (Metric or Standard depending on your vehicle.)

A complete screwdriver set, to include flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers.

Trouble light (fluorescent recommended for better viewing.)

Coolant system gauge.

Antifreeze and water source.

Drain pan.

Grease rags.

It’s a good idea to lay out these specific tools ahead of time near where you’ll be working. This way you can run a checklist and see that you have all the tools needed to do the job.

Inspection:

You’ll first want to inspect the cooling system. Starting with the radiator hoses, examine them for “dry-rot”. That is, look for a flaking or brittleness in the rubber hosing. Grab the hoses on both top and bottom and firmly, but not overly firm, squeeze the radiator hoses. If you feel any wetness or if flakes of rubber come off on your hands, that means the hose or hoses need to be replaced. Consult your local parts store for replacement hoses. When obtaining new hoses, be sure to obtain new hose clamps.

While checking the hoses, look for water leaks around where the hose marries with the radiator. If there is little water leaking out, take a Phillips head or Flat head screw driver and tighten down the hose clamps as tight as possible. This will seal that end of the connection. Be sure to also check the connection on the other ends that connect to the engine itself and tighten as necessary.

Next, inspect the radiator itself for cracks, holes and dents. Use of a flourescent trouble light is especially helpful here as the bright light exposes the cracks better than a regular light bulb. If not obscured, look on the back of the radiator grill that faces the engine as well as the front. Get down on the ground and look underneath, especially around the draincock for any damage to working parts there. If any minor holes are found, you might want to consider taking your vehicle to a radiator shop where those smaller holes can be welded shut.

Radiator coolant levels:

The coolant level in your automobile is critical to maintaining a cool engine that doesn’t overheat. Normal coolant/water levels in a vehicle are 50%/50%. In extreme cold environments, where you want added freezing protection, the recommended level is 70%/30%. Before filling your radiator, it’s a good idea to flush the radiator. That is, to drain and clear out any contaminents in the radiator itself to ensure proper function and flow of the antifreeze and water through your system.

Flushing the radiator:

With the engine cool, remove the radiator cap. Check the spring on the cap and make sure it’s not rusted, bent or broken. Also, inspect the gasket on the radiator cap for dry rot, cuts or missing parts of the gasket. If any of these things occur, you will need a new radiator cap. Next, locate the draincock on your radiator. This is located near the front and underneath the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the draincock and then open the draincock until the water starts flowing out at a steady stream.

Once the water and coolant has drained, close the draincock. Pour an entire bottle of radiator flush into the radiator, fill the rest of the radiator up with water, and then put the radiator cap back on securely. Next, start the engine and turn on the heater to high and let the car idle for 15-20 minutes. During this time, be sure to monitor your temperature gauge on your instrument display inside the car. The needle should stay between the H and C marks. If the needle moves into the red during this time, shut-off the vehicle immediately.

After the required 15-20 minutes have passed, turn off the ignition and let the engine cool for approximately 5 minutes. Then with a thick rag, remove the radiator cap and then open the draincock. Observe the water coming out of the radiator. If the color of the water is a very faint red color, then things are normal. If the color of the water is a heavy shade of red, you may need to flush the radiator again, as this is a sign that rust has set in. If several flushes do not get rid of the red in the water, you must replace the radiator. Once completely drained, close the draincock and then fill up the radiator completely with water, replace cap, and turn on ignition and let run for another 15-20 minutes.

Once time has passed, open the cap, drain the radiator of the water, and close the draincock. For refilling the radiator, auto parts stores today come with premixed antifreeze and water to refill your radiator on your vehicle. This is recommended, especially for novice D.I.Y. efforts. Pour in as many bottles as it takes to fill the radiator up to the brim of the fill hole. If you have an overfill reservoir, be sure to fill that to the proper level by noting the tick marks on the side of the reservoir. Replace the cap on the radiator, turn on ignition and let the vehicle run for at least one half hour. If the temperature gauge stays between the H + C marks, then you are finished with the flush and refill. If the needle inches towards the hot zone, then add more 50/50 mix antifreeze until the needle settles steadily between the hot and cold zones. To measure the protection level, take one coolant system gauge, stick inside the fill hole, and squeeze the bulb. The number of balls floating at a single time, along with the temperature marks on the vial, will tell you how much protection, in both cold weather and hot weather, you have. This concludes the flush and refill instructions for your radiator.

Word of Caution! In maintaining your radiator between flushes, do not mix different brands of radiator mix. Different makers of coolant formulate their products differently than others, and mixing two different kinds can alter the protection level of your radiator, and may lead to mechanical breakdown of the cooling system. Always use the same brand and type of coolant in your vehicle every time you flush or fill.

REMOVAL, INSTALLATION AND SIZING

Whether you’ve lost one or just want to improve or change the look of your car, replacing hubcaps is a fairly easy task. Removing old hubcaps can be accomplished with a flathead screwdriver and a little force. Simple wedge the end of the screwdriver under the outer edge of the cap and work your way around the entire cap until it is freed from the rim. In essence you’ll be prying using the same method you would removing the lid from a can of paint.

New hubcaps will either have prongs molded into the edge of the cap to attach to the rim of the tire or a metal ring that gets attached prior to fastening the cap to your tire. Aftermarket hubcap sets usually have the metal ring attachments. Their method of attachment is a bit more detailed because you have to secure the ring onto the cap before you secure the cap to the tire. Plastic or metal clips are positioned at grip points around the edge of the cap and then the ring is attached to them. It’s important to make sure the ring is properly attached because this ring is what keeps the cap on your tire. That said, with these sets it’s very easy to inadvertently reverse the clip or install them incorrectly. Directions included with the new set will specify exactly how the clips are installed so pay close attention to them if you‘re new to the process.

If you’re purchasing a new set you’ll need to know the width of your rim before you shop. The markings on the sidewall of your tire will show you the rim size or tire width. The numbers will look something like this: P185 75 R14. In this case the rim size is 14 signified by the R14 in the number sequence. In the search for hubcaps you’d want to locate and purchase 14 inch replacements.

FINDING REPLACEMENTS

Replacement hubcaps can be located in a few different places depending on your need. If you are looking to replace a lost hubcap to complete the set already on your vehicle it’s wise to price them before you buy. The dealership will be able to get the replacement for you but the cost will be substantial especially on older cars. Most towns have hubcap stores that specialize in used hubcaps that cost substantially lower than that of a dealership and in most cases they are almost brand new. Junkyards and lots that house wrecked and old cars may also have what your looking for at prices that are a steal.

Auto supply stores and other outlets that sell auto parts carry a selection of low priced sets to enhance your vehicles appearance. These are great, low cost options for those who just want to make minor cosmetic changes to a cars appearance. Most sets start around twenty buck and run as high as fifty depending on the style you choose and the size of your rims.

Originally gas caps were simply used as a closure for the fuel tank. In the past years when emission control and safety issues came into focus, gas caps have been improved to provide other features. As an emission control device, locking caps or those that close with a ‘click’ seal the tank and help reduce fuel vapors from escaping into the air. A missing or broken gas cap can emit the equivalent of 30 gallons of gas per year into the air. As a safety precaution these same types of caps are helpful in the event of a collision or rollover. The prevention of fuel leaking onto the roadway or other surface obviously greatly reduces the chance of fire in an otherwise non-threatening crash. The use of locking caps has also helped in the prevention of tampering with fuel tanks.

On newer cars the emission control features the gas cap provides can be the reason a check engine light is on when you‘re sure there‘s nothing else wrong with the car. When the seal has been broken or isn’t correctly sealing the fill tube for your tank, sensors are triggered and your check engine light comes on and stays on with that frustrating glow drivers endure from time to time. The tripped sensors indicate there is an evaporative leak in your fuel system. If this happens, replace the cap as soon as possible. Once the new cap is locked and in place the light should go out, but keep in mind on some models it will take a couple times of locking and unlocking the cap for the vehicle to sense the leak has been corrected.

If your gas cap has been lost or you suspect it’s not working properly it’s important that you replace it immediately. It’s always a good idea to check with your manufacturer’s guidelines when purchasing any aftermarket part for your vehicle ahead of time to make sure there of any specific features a replacement cap may require. Always beware of one size fits all caps; they may not fill the specific safety and emission control needs your vehicle requires. Once you’ve determined any special features or recommendations your car maker may have, a trip to your local auto supply store is in order. It’s unnecessary to purchase a new cap from the dealership. The cap will be much more expensive and it won’t necessarily be any better than what you’d purchase at an auto supply store.

Specific features aside, your auto supply store will search for the correct replacement cap for your vehicle and in most cases it will be in stock. Because gas caps are a fairly common item, most stores carry a significant stock of them. If for some reason it’s not in stock, they can always run the part down for you and direct you to the place that currently carries it.

Once you’ve found the proper cap you’ll install the new one just as the old one was complete with retention rings, if your car has them, to insure you don’t lose the new cap.

And always, whether you’re putting fuel in your vehicle or replacing just the cap, place one hand on the vehicle to discharge any electrical charge you may have built up. Fuel fumes are more flammable than the fuel itself so be careful.

You probably have encountered the experience of having a big truck pass you on the highway, and soon after, a rock flies up and chips your windshield. The truck is usually moving too fast to catch his license plate, and even if you did, getting the chip repaired by his company would be a major undertaking, possibly never successful, surely requiring hours of phone time. If you are like most of us, you probably say a few choice words, and resolve to have it repaired. Of course, since we all live life in the fast lane these days, that could be months away. If you have procrastinated this repair in the past you already know why it should never be left for later.

After a chip or nick is created in your windshield, there is an opening for moisture to enter the integrity of the laminate, the layers of glass. If that moisture is allowed to collect in the chip at night, for instance, and then the morning sun hits the windshield, the expansion of the moisture can and very often does cause the “spider webbing” often seen around a chip. In some extreme cases, it will cause a long, growing crack that will eventually extend completely across your windshield. These cracks can cause you to be cited by police if they alter your field of vision, and are a nuisance at the least. The home repair of this chip is simple, low-cost and should be considered at the first opportunity after the chip happens.

One option is to take your car to a glass repair and replacement shop. These chips are professionally repaired in just a few minutes, and the cost is about $25 per chip. However, if you are like most of us, finding time to do this could be a problem, since most glass shops keep the same work hours that we do, and are rarely open on weekends. The other alternative is to purchase a home repair kit at your local auto parts store or discount department store. These kits range in price from about $8-$10. The process only requires a few minutes, and the results are almost undetectable. If you choose this option, here are the simple instructions for completing the job:

In preparation for this repair, it is highly recommended that you park your car facing the sun, so that the windshield is warmed by the sun. The ultra-violet sun rays will help to cure the resin completely.

1) You will need the kit you purchased from the store. That kid contains a syringe apparatus, and usually a suction cup of some sort, what appears to be a little cone on a disk, and a plastic disk with a tab on one edge and a self adhesive backing. In addition, you will need a bottle of window cleaner and a fresh cleaning rag, and possibly a couple of towels or rags to place under the site so that you avoid spills on your dash or paint job.

2) Clean the area to be repaired thoroughly, and allow the spot to dry completely.

3) Some kits will come complete with a suction cup. If yours does, attach it to the inside of your windshield, centered over the chip you are going to repair.

4) Punch the center hole out of the plastic disk, and peel the backing from it. Apply this disk, centering the hole over the chip on the outside of the windshield.

5) Now, there should be a little cone in the kit. This cone also has a removable self adhesive backing. Remove that backing, and apply the cone by sticking it to the disk you just applied. Be sure to center the cone over the center hole of the disk below.

6) The syringe contains enough resin filler to repair one fairly large chip. It requires no mixing or other preparation, and may require you to clip the tip from the nozzle. Attach this syringe snugly to the cone, most of them insert into the cone, and will require that you twist them to engage them tightly.

7) Begin by drawing the plunger on the syringe out, drawing air from the chip. You will notice, if you have a suction cup on the inside of the glass, is that the suction cup will compress towards the glass.

Once you have achieved the maximum air withdrawal, simply release the plunger. This will inject the resin into the chip, filling all the spaces that were holding air.

9) Leave the apparatus attached to the glass and let the sun cure the resin for at least 5-10 minutes.

10) Carefully peel the suction cup from the inside of the glass by catching your fingernail under the edge of it to break the air seal.

11) Using the tab on the plastic disk, slowly peel it off of the glass.

12) Wait at least 30 minutes for the resin to complete curing, then clean any excess resin from the glass with a razor blade. This blade is included in most kits.

I think you will discover that the ease of this repair makes it far more acceptable than spending days on the phone attempting to convince a trucking company to repair your chip. You will most likely have to search to find the exact spot after a day.