Car Insurance

Turbocharged cars are very popular today and most automotive manufacturers offer a model in their line that utilizes a turbocharged engine – whether it is the Ford F-350 turbo diesel pick-up or a fuel sipping Volkswagen Golf TDI. Turbos are becoming increasingly popular due to their fuel efficiency, longevity and ability to increase the power level of an engine by over 40%.

However, on higher mileage turbocharged cars, different problems can start to appear which can be relatively cheap and straight-forward to fix or a very costly repair.

So what are some turbocharger repairs that are easy for an owner to do and which ones should be left to the professional mechanic?

Some of the most common problems related to turbocharged cars are:

1) Loss of power

2) Noisy turbo

3) Blue exhaust smoke

Loss of Power: A loss of power is a very common issue that arises in high mileage turbocharged cars. While the symptoms sound serious, the fix could be very straight forward and easy to do. Typical causes of a noticeable reduction in engine power can be anything from a clogged air filter element, to a disconnected pipe in the turbo system, (causing a reduction or complete loss of peak boost) to a worn-out boost controller.

Checking for a clogged filter element is very easy and takes just a few minutes to perform. After referring to your owner’s manual in the section related to air filter replacement, locate the air filter box in your car’s engine bay and undo the clamps/screws that hold it together. Once you’re able to open the air box, remove the air filter located inside. If the air filter is caked in dirt or other items such as bugs, leaves, etc., you should replace it with a new filter from your local parts store/ dealership. If your filter isn’t clogged or if the new filter doesn’t improve the engine’s power, move to the next check.

A turbocharged engine will have series of pipes and hoses that must be completely sealed in order to prevent any loss of boost from the system. The main hoses/pipes to check will be the ones that’ll run from the turbo to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the intake duct (if there is no intercooler then pipe will run from the turbo housing to the intake duct). With age the clamps sealing off the ends of the hoses get weakened or rusted, causing the hose to leak pressure from the system or even completely pop-off! These hoses are generally easy to check with a little patience and if none have popped-off it might be a good idea to tighten or even replace the clamps with new ones. If you do find a hose that has popped off, that hose may need to be replaced as it could have ripped when it came off the clamp. If the hose is in good condition, get a new clamp and re-attach hose.

Another cause for a loss in power will be a worn spring in the boost controller. The boost controller is used to monitor the amount of boost that’s fed into the intake of your engine. Most factory systems will use a pre-loaded spring mechanism that will cause a valve to open when boost levels exceed a certain preset value. Over time the spring can become worn resulting in max boost pressure not being able to be reached. Simply replacing the factory unit with a cheap $20.00 aftermarket manual boost controller can return lost power. Replacement of the unit is very easy, and most aftermarket boost controllers come with step-by-step installation instructions.

If none of the above fixes restores your car’s power, then it’s probably something more serious, and you should take it into your local dealership or mechanic for a thorough inspection. It is very likely that the turbocharger housing could be worn with age and a re-built turbo would be necessary. Re-builds can run anywhere from $500 to well over $1,500 per turbo excluding labor.

Noisy Turbo: A noisy turbo is also a very common problem with high mileage turbocharged engines. The turbine housing can become noisier with age as its moving parts become worn. However, the excess noise can be caused by some other factors that might be at play.

A turbo can become noisier if the pipe/hoses taking air to the turbo or away from it become clogged or have a leak. Similar to the fix for the loss of engine power, check all pipes and hoses leading to the turbo or away from it to the intercooler or intake duct. Loosen the clamps and check for any obstruction in the pipe. When completed, re-attach the pipe and tighten the clamps back securely.

Another cause for a noisy turbo can be a clogged oil drain line leading from the turbo to the engine. This drain line can be tricky to get to, but if you’re able to remove it, check to see if the oil coming out of it looks sludgy or very smooth and easy flowing. If it’s the former, then there is most likely an obstruction or clog in the drain line and you will need to get a new oil drain line from your local dealership.

If the above fixes don’t make your turbo any quieter, then you should take your car into your mechanic or dealership. The moving turbine wheels in the turbocharger are most likely worn with age, and your turbo will need to be re-built or replaced.

Blue Exhaust Smoke: Blue exhaust smoke is a very issue that arises on high mileage turbocharged cars. This is generally a repair that you won’t be able to do yourself as it is often a clear indication of either turbocharger or engine damage which can lead to failure. If you notice blue smoke coming from your exhaust pipes, then you should take your car into a mechanic or dealer when your budget permits. A rebuilt turbocharger can run upwards of $1,500 per turbo excluding labor, while a rebuilt engine can run upwards of $3,000-$4,000.

Replacing your car’s radio antenna is quite simple and inexpensive depending on the type of antenna for your vehicle. Motorized antennas are going to be more expensive than fixed antennas so that should be considered before attempting the repair. As always, consult your vehicle’s user’s guide before attempting any repair.

What to do prior to starting the job.

Visit your local auto parts store, or car audio specialty store to obtain a replacement antenna for your model car. To determine the model of car, consult your owner’s manual. Most aftermarket antennas, aftermarket meaning that they are not supplied by the auto manufacturer, usually do not say specifically what make and model car they fit on the package. You’ll want to look for something on the package such as, “Fits most import cars” or “Fits domestic trucks.” If you are looking for a replacement for your powered antenna, you will need to find out what powers the motor. On most vehicles today, they are operated on a vacuum type system. Powered antennas come in both electric and vacuum power, so be sure to actually look at the part inside your vehicle to make that determination, or contact your local dealer and ask an automotive technician or the parts department before removing the antenna from the vehicle.

Tools needed for the job.

Some basic tools are needed to complete this task. A flat head or Phillips head screwdriver set, standard ratchet toolset and a specialty small ratchet.

Instructions:

First, disconnect the negative battery cable. This is to insure that you are not shocked when handling the antenna plug during removal and installation. Locate remove any panels, if necessary, to gain access to the antenna itself. Remove the stereo antenna wire from the plug connector on the antenna housing. Once removed, use the appropriate tool, such as a ratchet or screw driver, to remove the antenna assembly from the vehicle frame. Remove antenna assembly from vehicle. If removing a motorized antenna, be sure to disconnect the electrical wires or vacuum hose from the antenna assembly. Note the proper lead connection sequence if removing an electrical powered antenna on a piece of paper. Caution: If working on an electrical powered antenna, ground yourself before handling any electrical wires. Even with the battery disconnected, electrical capacitors maintain an electrical charge that can be discharged if touched by a metal tool. You can ground yourself by using a grounding strap or by touching the metal frame of the vehicle.

Once the old antenna is removed, replace with the new antenna in the proper mounting area. Tighten all screws or nuts until snug, but do not over tighten. After the antenna is mounted in the proper location securely and in the right orientation, reconnect the stereo antenna wire to the antenna housing plug. If necessary, connect any electrical wires or vacuum hoses to the proper connectors. Replace any paneling securely and then connect negative battery cable. Turn on radio and check for reception. If the radio has static, you may not have fully pushed in the stereo antenna wire firmly into the connector on the antenna housing. Most connectors will make a clicking sound to inform you that the connector is properly seeded. Remove the connector and replace until either hearing or feeling a click between both male and female ends. End of repair instructions.

Vehicle maintenance is the most important task that a car owner has. When any vehicle is maintained regularly it will not only perform normally but will ensure a longer life for your vehicle. Regular maintenance includes changing the oil and oil filter, transmission fluid, filter and gasket, flushing the radiator, checking all belts and hoses, changing the fuel filter and regular tune-ups. Though this covers most of the basic maintenance, the one thing that most people forget about are the tires.

Tires are a lot like our feet; without them we wouldn’t get very far very fast. They are very important but, unfortunately, they are also the last thing we think about. However quite often it is just these parts that can cause severe problems when not taken care of properly. Worn tires can cause a flat tire, a blown tire, decreased traction and increase the chances of hydroplaning. The best way to avoid these situations is to replace your tires when necessary.

When you purchase new tires they will be under warranty for a specified period of time; different tires and different tire companies carry different warranties. Some people will replace their tires once the warranty has expired. Though this in an option it is not necessary. Doing this simply insures against having to purchase a replacement tire should something happen to one of your tires.

If you do not replace your tires when the warranty on them expires you simply have to

check them regularly. When checking them always inspect the tread (the part of the tire that touches the road). If the ridges and grooves are still well defined the tread is still good. If the tread seems worn down, look for cracks, or thin breaks, where you can see the steel threads, you need to replace that tire. If not then your tire, or tires, will be alright for a short while but you will want to replace them soon. If there is little to no tread on the tires you need to replace them. Little to no tread can lead to hydroplaning, skidding and a blown tire.

When you are ready to purchase tires, whether new or used, you will need to know what size tire your vehicle needs. This information can be found either on the manufacturer’s specification plate (a piece of aluminum usually on the inside edge of the door or on the body where the door closes) or on the tires themselves. If this is the first time you have replaced tires on your vehicle you want to look on the specification plate as the tires on the car may not always be the right size. The tire size is a combination of numbers and letters, such as 275/R15, which tell the width and height of the tire.

If new tires are not an option due to budget or other circumstances you can often find decent used tires for a fraction of the price of new ones. Though used tires do not carry a warranty they will still make your vehicle safer than bad tires. New tires do have a warranty and will last a little longer however can be expensive depending on the type of vehicle you have.

Once you have decided on new or used tires, simply take your car to your local tire shop

and let them replace your tires. They will remove the tires from your car, mount the tires

on the rims, balance them and put them back on for you. With new tires, the only other thing you will have left to do is write down the mileage showing on the odometer of your car and the date on your purchase receipt. You will need this information for your warranty.

Changing a flat tire on a golf cart is not that difficult a job, especially if you have all the correct equipment. First, you must find a jack that fits under the golf cart. Not all jacks will work, because the golf cart is so low to the ground. Most screw jacks and hydraulic jacks will be too large and not fit under the golf cart; however, a small floor jack will do the job. The small floor jack is perfect because of its size; it will fit under the golf cart and is safe because the golf cart is not very heavy. The next piece of equipment will be a tool to remove the lug nuts. A socket and ratchet wrench or a tire tool will do this part of the job. You will also need some kind of blocking material to keep the golf cart from rolling while you are working on the flat tire.

The next step after collecting the materials needed is to block the tire on the opposite side of the flat tire, by placing something such as a brick or board in front and back of the tire to prevent the golf cart from rolling and causing an accident. Be sure to turn the key off and the set the foot brake to further prevent an accident. Also, make sure there are no passengers in the golf cart, because if it were to fall off the jack they could get hurt.

After blocking the wheels, place the jack under the golf cart frame near the tire that is to be changed. The correct socket and ratchet wrench, or tire tool that fits the lug nuts found on the flat tire’s hub is now used. Loosen all four lug nuts counter- clockwise. Do not remove them; you do not want the tire to come off while you are raising the jack. Raise the jack up until the tire is barely off the ground. Remove the loosened lug nuts. Remove the tire and for safety, lower the jack until you return with the fixed tire. Now take the flat tire to a place that will fix it.

After getting the flat tire fixed, carefully replace it on the hub. To do this, raise the jack back up high enough to place the tire on the wheel hub. While replacing the tire, keep hands from under the golf cart–it could still fall. Reattach the lug nuts and hand tighten them just enough to keep the tire on the hub. Now, lower the jack until there is some pressure on the tire. After lowering the jack, use the same socket and ratchet wrench or tire tool to tighten all the lug nuts. At this point, check the all the lug nuts to make sure they are as tight as you can get them. Then completely lower the jack and remove it. Remove the blocks from the other tire and you are ready to go back to your golf game.