Car Insurance

So you have decided that your car needs a new paint job. If you do this by yourself it will cost much less money then if you get it professionally done. There are many items to get if you are painting your car though. If you want to paint the car by yourself and you have no idea how to do it, it is best to watch a body man at a local garage do the job. It will be time well spent since you will be able to observe many details that will help you more then reading hundreds of articles.

If you are painting your car just because there are some small chips of paint that are gone, a better idea might be to just touch up those areas. To do this, first clean the area you want to touch up. Then you need to build up the paint just above the original level, and then gently sand it down. You then need to spray a touch on the sanded area to give it back the original shine, but then it will be just as before. This method is only suited for solid colours, metallic colours may come out blotchy. This method is only suitable if the chip is very small, such as caused by a small rock, not long scratches.

First you need to strip all the paint from the car. A chemical paint stripper will be the best bet. Make sure that your work area is clean and well ventilated and dust free. Wear gloves and protect your eyes with goggles. If the stripper comes into contact with your skin, rinse it immediately with water to neutralise it; the paint stripper is highly corrosive and harmful for your skin. Read the directions of the paint stripper carefully and apply the stripper all over the car with a paintbrush. Cover the area with clear plastic (available from any hardware stores) so the fumes will be trapped inside and will work faster on the car. Wait for the allocated amount of time, and remove the plastic. Now you can start to scrape off the paint with a putty knife or a paint scraper. To neutralise the paint stripping chemical the car should be rinsed with water. If necessary apply the chemical stripper again, and if not, sand the car to make it even and more adhesive for the layer of paint you will apply to it.

Now you will need to apply masking tape at all the windows and parts that you do not want to apply the paint on. Make sure you do a very good job at this, it will look quite bad when the pane is on the window frames or on rubber all over the car. This job is very detail oriented and you should not leave out any part of the car.

Now you will be able to start the paint job. Spray a grey lacquer or urethane primer over the entire surface of the car and let it dry completely. Remember to keep the dust off the car. This will be accomplished best by making a static storage above the car that will attract the dust, like hanging a few balloons that you first rub above the car. You can also try to make the car not static by attaching a wire to the frame of the car and having it touch the ground. Apply at least four or five coats of the primer. A great way to practice your painting technique is by applying the primer. This coat can be removed if you do the job incorrectly and you can apply seven or eight coats if you like. After you’re comfortable applying the primer you should use the real colour since it is more expensive then the primer. Practice first on cardboard for the correct distance; too close will be too wet and will create runs, and too far will look dusty. After four or five coats of the grey primer, apply one light coat of a red primer. This coat will, when sanded, guide you to the high and low spots on the car and will help you spray on the paint better. If you notice dents (when the red primer can’t be sanded off) you need to consider putting filler on the car to mask those spots.

Next apply a sealer all over the car, and let it dry at least for one hour but not more then four hours. The sealer will make sure that the car will not rust and will keep the paint from chipping off.

After the sealer is dry you are able to paint the rest of the car. Make sure that you spray the colour evenly and in a thin coat to avoid having drops show up and dry in uneven blotches. You will need to keep the spray head at least 8 to 10 inches away from the car, and move in uniform even strokes across the car. Avoid runs and build up of paint.

When painting, start at the top where you have to reach. That way you will not drag your coat over a freshly painted area. Spray the first coat on very lightly and make sure that the pain is even. Your car will require about seven or more light coats. If you are using metallic paint you will need to spray the pain in alternately horizontal and vertical patterns to bring out the shine better and make it look professional. Sand after every coat you spray, in the same direction as the spraying, and use very fine sandpaper (start with 600 and work your way to 1000). Then you will be able to take off the masking tape, polish the car, and voila! You are finished.

Minor dings, dents, dimples to your car’s exterior can cost thousands to repair. Uninsured motorists and those with older vehicles where damage exceeds the value of the car, are often unable to afford the repair job necessary. Leaving even minor surface damage not only decreases its value, but also leads to rust and early wear on the vehicle.

WHAT CAN BE REPAIRED

Almost all body damage can be repaired, given the right tools are at hand. For simplicity reasons, we’ll deal with dents, dimples, and dings here.

SMALL DENTS, meaning those which measure less than 5-inches, can easily be repaired at home with a few tools, provided metal has not been folded or torn on the vehicle’s exterior.

MEDIUM SIZED DENTS, or those which are 5-7 inches in diameter can also usually be repaired without visiting your neighborhood body shop. You’ll undoubtedly need a dent-pulling plunger to handle this job and a few hours of your undivided attention.

LARGE DENTS, too, can be repaired at home, though it is often easier and more cost efficient to replace an entire panel, rather than try to reshape it.

TOOLS

There are an assortment of dent pulling tools on the market today. Each work well, provided they’re used as they are intended.

HOUSEHOLD PLUNGERS

If you have a super small dent or one that should pop out easily, common household plungers will work as a tool. The more suction the plunger creates, the easier your job will be. When using a household plunger, put a small amount of petroleum jelly around the rim of the rubber plunger to prevent paint marring and to help create a better seal.

DENT-PULLING PLUNGERS

Specialized dent-pulling plungers look nothing like common household plungers. In order for dent-pulling plungers to work properly, it’s often necessary that you drill a small hole into the center of the dent before inserting this tool. Dent-pulling plungers come in a variety of sizes and shapes and work well on small to medium sized dents. Some dent-pulling plungers use forced air to pop the dent back into place. You can purchase specialized dent-pulling plungers at any automotive shop separately or as part of a dent removal kit.

METAL WORKING HAMMER

Many dents show themselves on both the outside and underside of your vehicle. To prevent further damage (such as rust, corrosion, and etc.), it’s important to treat both sides of your automobile. Metal working hammers are specifically designed to work on metal without marring or damaging their sometimes delicate surfaces. Metal working hammers should only be used on the underside of a vehicle.

RUBBER MALLET

Rubber mallets can also be used to bang out a dent from the underside of a vehicle. The larger the surface area of the mallet, the better.

THE SIMPLE PLUNGER METHOD

Pull a dent with a traditional plunger by following these instructions:

1. Place your plunger directly over the damaged area.

2. Slowly and carefully (so as not to make the damage worse), push in slowly.

3. Quickly pull the plunger toward you. The dent should suck out.

4. Repeat, if necessary.

USING TOOLS

Dent pulling tools which use forced air, specialized pumps, and similar means of pressure relief almost always require the user to drill a small hole in order for the tool to work effectively. If you’re using this method to repair a minor dent, follow these basic steps:

1. Using the drill bit recommended (in your hardware’s specifications), drill a small hole in the center of the dent. ALWAYS drill from the outside in.

2. Push the plunger-styled dent pulling tool through the small hole you’ve drilled.

3. Pull on your dent pulling tool with even, firm pressure.

OPTIONAL

If you discover there still exists a dent on the interior metal of the car, you should also work to correct this flaw, as well. You’ll need to crawl under the car to complete this step and have with you a hammer specifically designed to work with metals or a rubber mallet.

1. Using light strokes first, bang the back of the dent with your hammer.

2. Continue banging the back of the dent with appropriate pressure until it is smooth.

4. Use an appropriate body filler to fill the hole you made in the dent with your drill. Body filler should be added in small amounts to the exterior of the car and smoothed with a putty knife or similar tool. Allow to dry completely.

5. Use wet sandpaper with a 1500 grit to smooth the area. Once you’re satisfied, use wet sandpaper with a 2000 grit to blend and smooth more.

6. Use touch-up paint provided by your car’s manufacturer to cover the body filler and blend with your paint’s finish.

7. Again, wet sandpaper with a 2000 grit sheet until car’s finish matches and you are satisfied with the overall appearance.

DRY ICE METHOD OF DENT REMOVAL

For small dings and dents, a process of heat and extreme cold may force the dent out on its own. Heat the dent with a specialized tool or blow dryer. Once its heated, apply dry ice directly on to the dents surface. The dent should pop out.

NOTE: Dry ice can cause damage to skin instantly. Always wear gloves when handling dry ice.

TIPS AND TRICKS

IF you’re repairing a fender dent with a dent pulling tool, drill slowly and carefully to avoid drilling directly into your tire.

WATER can be used around the rim of a plunger to help make a soled seal.

IN a pinch, a regular household hammer can be used to bang out damage from the underside of an automobile. Always cover the hammer’s head with a soft cotton rag before using.

If you have a new car chances are that you are very protective of its looks when you first purchase it. Since you can’t control nature, you may become paranoid about those natural hazards, which may eat, away at your new investment. You can however prevent and treat certain problems which you can not prevent such as removing bugs and tar from the finish of your car. The following will explain steps you can take to protect and treat your car’s finish from being destroyed by bugs and tar.

First, protect your car buy investing in it. Purchase a bug protector for your car. You can find them at any auto parts store. If they do not carry it, chances are that they will be able to order to fit your car.

Second, keep your car waxed regularly. By waxing your car on schedule, you protect your car by apply a coat which protects the clear coat on your car in the event that tar becomes attached. It is also easier to remove a bug from a car that has been waxed. You may find that using a hard wax provides more protection than a liquid wax. If you don’t have the time or patience to wax your car have a professional apply it for you.

Remember preventative maintenance is the best protection for your car. This rules apply to anything which may happen to your finish as well as your car in general. If you see in thing attached to your finish such as asphalt, bugs, bird droppings, tar, sap, etc. remove it as soon as possible. If you allow it to remain there for a long period of time you may find it harder to remove and may not be able to prevent destruction of your car’s finish.

It may be too late to prevent the bug and tar from attaching but you can remove it from your car. You can remove them with car buy trying some of the following suggestions.

Try using good old fashioned cooking oil or grease to remove those pesky bugs and tar from your car’s finish. Apply it to a 100 percent cotton towel and apply to the spot. Apply in a circular motion and then wash your car as usual. You may want to use a combination car wash and wax to provide some protection against future bugs. Be sure to wash you car using a 100 percent cotton towel and to wash it with care to protect you car finish. Don’t scrub your car it may do more harm than good. Be gentle.

If the tar is really tough to remove you may find finger nail polish remover to be more effective. Apply it with a cotton ball to the area that you have a problem with. Don’t allow the finger nail polish remover remain there for a long period of time, it may destroy your finish. To be safe, rinse thoroughly and then proceed to wash your car as usual after removing the spot.

You may need to go to your local auto parts store or retail store and purchase a bug and tar remover for your vehicle. These products are designed to protect your car’s finish as well as remove these spots from your car effectively. Ask your dealership about which is the best type of remover to use on your car.

If none of these remedies are effective. Run don’t walk to the nearest full service car wash. They will know how to best remove bugs from your car’s finish and may also provide you with additional tips on how to prevent and treat it in the future.

Mechanically sound cars are often junked because their bodies have rusted out. To prevent rust, wash the car often, wax it at least twice a year, and repair all chips, scratches and dents before rust sets in.

Two types of paint can be used on cars, lacquer and enamel. They cannot be mixed or the paint will crinkle. General Motors cars are usually finished with lacquer, most others are finished in enamel. Touchup paints are sold in aerosol cans marked with the carmaker’s color code number. These numbers are found on a plate mounted under the hood or on the door post of your car. If the paint on your car is an enamel, use enamel primer; if it is lacquer, use a lacquer primer.

Before sanding and painting, clean the area with a commercial wax remover or rubbing alcohol. Always use wet or dry type sandpaper and keep it thoroughly soaked with water. Use small pieces and plunge them into a bucket frequently. They cannot be too wet. Minor paint stains and imperfections can be buffed out with a polishing compound, a white abrasive paste. This may dull the surface, but waxing will restore the shine. Orange-colored rubbing compound should be used only on pre-1964 cars. Follow instructions on fillers and paints. Do not wax new paint for two to three weeks.

Note: Regularly hose mud, snow, and salt build-up

from wheel wells and underbody of your car.

Procedure:

Scrape away loose paint particles with a penknife.

If you cannot scrape away at pieces of rust, you must sand them off. Spray some aerosol touchup paint into a paper cup. Dip an artist’s paintbrush into the paint and dab it onto the surface. Let the paint flow from the loaded brush into the chip.

Remove all of the rust and feather the edges of surrounding paint with very fine wet or dry sandpaper. Keep paper and repair area soaked with water. Cover adjoining panels with masking tape and several layers of newspaper. Cover chrome trim with masking tape. Use top of a pen to press tape down firmly. If a scratch is small, cut a hole to shape of damaged area in a piece if shirt cardboard. Hold cardboard an inch from the car and spray the primer through the hole. Let primer dry for 30 minutes, then sand smooth with sandpaper soaked in water. Clean area with rubbing alcohol. Apply color coat in same manner as primer.

Do not try to cover large areas with one heavy coat, or the paint will run. Use several quick, light coats. Let paint dry for three days, then rub with polishing compound.

For minor dents, pound out with your fist or use a plunger, press it against the body of the car and sharply pull it out. If this fails, drill a series of holes in the dent and insert sheet metal screws. Pull the dent out with a claw hammer, using slow, steady pressure against a hardwood block. Remove the screws and sand with a # 40 sandpaper. Fill in the low areas with auto body filler, let it cure, and sand with a #80 sandpaper. Then you can proceed in touching up the car with the paint, as instructed above.

You cannot simply glue torn vinyl upholstery back in place; the adhesive will destroy the foam padding underneath. Make a vinyl patch from excess seat material or similar material from an auto upholstery shop or car dealer. Use an automotive vinyl or trim adhesive.

Cut a piece of vinyl larger than the tear from the excess material tucked up under the edges of the seat. For big tears, try to buy a matching material. Fold the patch and push it under the tear in the upholstery. Open it up and spread it out evenly under the tear with the finished side facing up, the backing facing down.

Carefully, lift the torn piece of upholstery and apply vinyl adhesive all around the underside of the tear. Apply adhesive to the surface of the patch material as well. Press the flap gently into place, keeping the edges as close together as possible. Do not press too hard or edges will part. If a gap remains, use a repair kit to fill it.

Fixing split piping on your seat requires a thin matchstick or piece of doweling and contact Tcement. Remove the match head. Apply cement to one end of wood and insert it part way into the split piping. Apply cement to protruding end of stick and work other piece of piping onto it. Let cement set thoroughly before using the seat.

Cuts, tears, or cigarette burns in vinyl roofs or upholstery can be mended so that they are invisible. If you use a vinyl repair kit sold by speciality mail-order houses. The kit contains patching compound in several colors, graining sheets, and a material for making your own graining sheets to match older patterns.

Fixing Carpet Burns-

Cut away the charred pile with curved cuticle scissors. Cut a few undamaged loops of carpeting from under the seats, behind a piece of molding for instance, or up under the dash where the carpet is hidden. Fill the charred depression with a clear-drying glue. Insert the undamaged loops into the glue with tweezers. Make sure the loops remain fairly upright and let the glue set and dry for 24 hours before stepping on it.

For vinyl roof rips and tears, melt the vinyl with the tip of a household iron to repair cuts that do not extend into the cloth backing. Set temperature at the lowest setting on permanent press. When the iron cools, clean it with a nylon scouring pad to remove any excess vinyl.

If the cut extends through the cloth backing, glue backing into place with the trim adhesive first, then melt the surface of the vinyl as above. Do not get glue onto the surface of the vinyl, solvents that remove the adhesive will also melt and mar the top.

Cover a bubble with masking tape, then pierce it a few times with a needle. Heat it with a 250 watt infrared lamp held 3 to 5 inches from the top. Press vinyl to roof with a wood block until glue rehardens. Remove tape and excess glue.

If bubble will not stay down, leave masking tape in place and inject more adhesive with a hypodermic needle, or cut an X through the vinyl with a razor and repair.

Keep the car out of the hot sun for at least 24 hours.